Adventures in the Valley of
the Kings
My first two visits to the Valley of the Kings cannot be forgotten. I made
my first visit when I was about 17 years old. I was a student at the
Faculty of Arts in Alexandria in the Greco-Roman Department. The school
organized a field trip to the Valley of the Kings. Most of the students
were busy running around or joking, but I was fascinated with this valley
that always reveals many secrets. At that time, I never thought that I
would ever excavate there. My future unknown, I felt drawn to this valley,
a feeling that, even today, I cannot explain. At that time, the last
discovery had been the unearthing of the tomb of Tutankhamun on November
4th, 1922. When I visited the valley in 1965, 62 tombs were known, 26 of
them belonging to kings and the rest to non-royal individuals. This was
possible because the king could decree that anyone could be buried in the
valley. The secrets of king Tut’s tomb were amazing because the tomb was
found intact while others such as Amenhotep II and the tomb of Yuya and
Thuyu were found only semi-intact. Recently, Kent Weeks rediscovered KV 5,
a tomb that had been opened three times before in antiquity. Kent found
many rooms in the tomb and believes that at one time the sons of Ramses II
were buried here but I can now say that the tomb was never used for
burial; rather it was a sort of symbolic tomb for the sons of Ramses II
and there is much evidence to support this.
When I returned to the Valley of the Kings, I was no longer a student but
the Inspector of Antiquities. I was working with the University of
Pennsylvania expedition at Malkata on the West bank and at the same time,
over 20 other Egyptian archaeologists were working in Luxor with foreign
missions, because, after 1973, the Egyptian government decided to
concentrate the work of foreign expeditions at Giza, Luxor, and Aswan. We
used to meet in the afternoon at El-Marsam hotel. This hotel belonged to
Sheikh Aly Abd el-Rasoul, the last member of the Abd el-Rasoul family, who
knew the secrets of the Valley of the Kings and worked inside the tunnel
found within the tomb of Seti I, the very same tomb I am currently
excavating.
One night on a full moon, I decided to visit the Valley of the Kings. I
asked Sheikh Nagdy, the chief of the guards, to come with me. He was the
son of Sheikh Abd el-Mangoud and a character that cannot be forgotten.
Sheikh Abd el-Mangoud was friends with many famous foreign archaeologists
and used to guard the antiquities of the West Bank with a stick. Sheikh
Nagdy was also an interesting man, but he was not like his father. He had
a drinking problem. I was lucky enough to catch him before he got drunk.
He came with me to the valley. I stood in front of the tomb of King Tut
looking at the peak on the mountain that was shaped like a pyramid. The
ancient Egyptians had carved their tombs in this pyramid-shape mountain to
maintain the Old and Middle Kingdoms traditions. I told Sheikh Nagdy that
I wanted to climb the mountain and stay there until morning. I asked him
to leave, but he refused. He went for an inspection and then came back. He
stayed down in the valley until morning. It took me one hour to reach the
peak and I stayed there the whole night. It was the end of the summer and
the cold wind was blowing in my face, but the magic of the valley warmed
me. At that time, all the tombs found in the valley had been discovered by
foreigners. Not a single tomb had been found by an Egyptian and no
Egyptian expedition was excavating in the valley. One wonders why this is
the case? Why were there no Egyptian missions in the valley? So, I said to
myself: “one day I will excavate in the valley”. At that time, the tomb of
Ramses VIII was missing and I thought it could be found between the tombs
of Merneptah and his father, Ramses II. To be continued.
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